casting number on left side of block tells displacement:

recently finished puttimg new gaskets and timing chain in a 1985 318. after putting everything back together i relized that i forgot to  put the oil tab back in place.(sets behind the camshaft sprocket) what is the purpose of this and also should i reinstall it? thanks

it's for oil control on the timing set, can you live without it? Maybe. Should you? well.....

ok thanks. also was wondering. i have a 1969 318. it came out of a camper and im told its a 318hd (heavy duty) it this true? the block itself seems to be thicker and the plugs are bigger,the valves are bigger. evereything seems to be bigger. the problem i have is ordering parts for this engine. could anyone tell me exactly what these engines came in.any help would be greatly apprieciated.thanks.

I know she's small but it was worth the $150. 1977 318 out of a 3/4T Power Wagon. She's been rebuilt with all new pistons, carb, everything top to bottom. We'll see how many she can make it through this summer, only bad thing we found with any other 318s we ran was they get too hot too quick, how do we prevent this?

(cough cough) a 318 that gets hot too quick? Sum-ting-wong, or a conflict of terms maybe. "Too hot" being a relative term we should be sure we're talking on the same level.

First of all, it is a trademark of Mopar engines to run like doggy poo poo when they are cold, and then run better and better as they heat up. To the point the water is long gone, oil temps are insane, and the thing just keeps gettin' it. This has always been what I like about them vs. GM or Ford engines... My experience with GM engines is that when they get stupid hot they get sick.... they do keep on chugging but at 1/3 the power. My experience with Ford engines is they never get stupid hot because they die before that lose all compression and never run again. But over and over with Mopar engines when they get stupid hot they still run at full power until you win, break, get hung, or the thing just plain seizes up but even in that last circumstance all you have to do is wait 10 minutes and it will fire back up and drive on the trailer hitting all 8. Change the oil and run it again next week. That's why I'm such a believer in Mopar power.

Now, the time it takes to get "stupid hot" is open for debate and certainly subject to a variety of conditions and build strategies. 318's are typically extremely forgiving engines so if you are having consistent problems I have to wonder if there is something wrong with your setup. You'll have to describe everything you do in a build that affects the engine for me to offer any suggestions.

ok im geting ready to rebuild my old 318 it needs to be bored out becasue of so light scoreing of the clys i bought a kit with new pistons .030 all new rings and bearings a new lunati cam and lifters double rollr timeing chain and gears. my ? is what should i have done to the block/heads should i have the crank cleaned and polished should i have the heads glass beaded and magnafluxed how lose should i have the block bored thanks for any help

I don't know, ran it in a stock show.. It was rebuilt, it got too hot and just blew if I remember what exactly we did to it I'd tell ya but we junked it with the car

ok, so this was just one engine and not several that you feel got "too hot too quick"? Could have had individual issues then. Especially if it was rebuilt, it could have been a variety of things. When bores and journals are machined the shop needs to understand that they have to go bigger with the clearances than if it was a road car engine. Specifics are a matter of personal preference but generally speaking I would look at a scale of clearances and pick a point halfway betweeen "ideal for road car rebuild spec" and "borderline in need of reconditioning". Could have been mismachined, or misassembled, or faulty parts, or or or or etc.

How's your luck with factory 318's?

personally I go .005 more than the piston manufacturers specs.

I would have the machine shop check the crank and go with there recommendations

have the heads cleaned and checked for cracks and a good valve job

if the machine shop says the guides are wore, make sure you tell them this thing is more than likey going to get real HOT

you do not want tight valve guides.

JMO

there are probably tens of thousands of people that will disagree with you on a 318 getting too hot too fast

good cooling system (good radiator, water pump, hoses, FAN)

ignition timing set properly for that specific engine

good trans. cooler

these are a must for a good performing derby setup.  UNTIL YOU LOOSE THE WATER

I have only ever had one SBM get hot enough to not refire when it stalled, and IMO, it was a fluke crap set up (Also, the only one I have lost a gear in the trans and it did refire ten minutes later). I have even ran an sbm with no water from start to finish due to a rust hole in the timing cover and not enough time to change it out, and it never died. I prefer the bone stock motors with a new carb, and good points distributor.

i wasnt ever too found of the 318's, i preferred my 360's.  I ran a late 80's 318, with an air gap, 2g, hei, and some underdrives with a 3 spd and i had more fun with that lil f'n screamin bastard that was drowning out gard motors than my 363 or 368.  If you want a 318 i would recommend the 80's versions.

Is it safe to assume that was a roller motor?

nope it was a flat tappet one, it surprised the hell outta me.  If i could figure out how to get dvds up on youtube id put it up.

sweet that is good to know, got two or three of the eighties 318s kicking around and have been focussing on the seventies ones thinking they would be slightly better, especially the early seventies.

I personally don't feel the roller engines are that big of a deal, stock vs. stock with the 318's I don't really care what vintage it is. I've had 318's that were magic and 318's that were just ok from every decade. I know which category it is after the first run.

Besides they have swirlport heads is about the only difference.

ok going to rebuild a 74 360, .030, with a 270, 420 comp cam, polish crank, going to have heads redone with matching springs, aftermarket intake and carb. still want to use stock converter so i don't want to go to big on cam.. i want some horses under the hood, any heplfull tips would be great.. ive built a 318 and a 400 all standard rebuilds just wanting a 360 with some snourt!! lol...thanks

sounds like a good plan, measure the combustion chamber volume for your heads and select a piston and head gasket combination to give you around 9:1 static compression and you should have what you are looking for