Thank you! IMP23X

What flexplate will I need with a 6.0?

Thanks

Random Information from the old site. Copy / Paste

Rubber gaskets fro your intakes are oem for 2000 corvette at advance for 26 bucks.

Ign: Msd is 10x better than a the dist by far. you cant get max timming with a dist and most newer moxed you can write your own timming curve. 0 degrees to get it started when hot and 40 degrees for max power when on hte floor. also you can have it at 0 degrees up till 2500 when your just idling around to not make heat. Technology is a wonderfull thing if your smart enough to understand it and commit to it.

Water Ports: Not sure where that thought keeps coming from, not the case ever, unless the radiator cap is lower than the head. those tubes are for warming up the hrottle body only. if no throttle body i cap them off. i do though crack them open when filling the motor up with water but not necessary. The designers i talk to say they are just for the throttle body and are not on the newer engines anymore. Its like the guys running coolant tubes from the back of the head to the front of the intake on small blocks. There is no flow there. it is non directional at that point. If people understood anything about fluid dynamics they wouldnt do half the stupid sh!t they do with cooling systems.

Same as the crankcase vent tubes in the headers. JOKE! Those were originally designed by some guys at Rher-Morison before Buddy died to be able to run super light rings that would create blow by if not used in a dry sump engine. It was built for a UMP mod which were not dry sump and they though they would put dry sump rings and gas ported pistons in a wet sump engine and if they added the crank case vent tubes and the angle of them was right, the VE was high enough in the engine and the exhaust pipe was the perfect size they could create a low enough pressure in the crankcase that it would suck the piston rings tight and seal. It worked. Rings are 95% of the friction in an engine and if you can kill off some of the tension your makin power. As for derby guys sticking them in thir pipes at 90 degrees and stock cast rings and 4" collectors...........................you know what im gonna say.

Joker14 Tips when tuning and running LS engines with a carb.

1. NO PLATINUM SPARK PLUGS, if you dont heed this warning your find out the hard way. Those plugs dont do well with the terrible fuel air mixes you throw at them.
2. Do spend time on initial start adjusting the idle mix screws, they are 20x more sensitive than small blocks especially with a 4bbl. it usually takes me 20 mins to tune mine right or you get terrible idle quailty.
3. Let them some time to get used to the ign box. It will run bad at first but after a few mins it ill learn a lot about the engine.
4. remove the thermostat and make sure you install a block off plate inside between the incomming and outgoing water passages. Not doing this will not circulate water but just run it in a circle and not push anything into the block or the radiator.
5. Make a custom lower water neck, the one that returns the water into the radiator. the angles are terrible to package up.
6. Make sure you always keep spare MAP sensors with you. If you run into bad idle problems, its usually cause you had a backfire and killed the MAP sensor and thinks your at 1/2 throttle and throws the timing to it and runs bad. They are cheap and usually get them off junk yard motors. With the programable stuff where you can see the live data make sure you bring your labtop along and if it runs rough go in and look at the live data on the MAP and if its stuck at 15v its usually been backfired and now junk. When this happens it runs fine just idles bad. Wont take you out of a derby but something youll have to deal with.
7. 15-50 Mobil 1 synthetic oil only, if not you'll find out on your own especially if you have a higher mileage motor.
8. When using DEC headers make sure you get the round coil set up, not the square ones. Again, if not youll findout the hard way.
9. tap and pipe plug the heater core outlet and inlets. If not use one as your engine temp. the holes are already drilled to size, just tap them.
10. 6.0's run great with a LS1 cam and LS1 heads.
11. Only use 93 octane, even with the stock stuff, again if you dont you find out why i tell you so.
12. the 4 corner water plugs need just that, plugged off. Find them on other core engines. most have them in the back and the tube for the throttle body which play no role in cooling so save the time and remember you are no engineer thinking your coming up with a solution to better cooling.
13. Have been having problems with the intake gaskets. They are ripping and sucking them in. I noticed the idle kept getting higher and higher ithout adjustment. With brake clean i sprayed very close to the gasket area and found the gaskets sucked in in a few places. They are replaced with 2000 Corvette intake gaskets. These still did not fix the problem. I then just resorted to the Felpro conventional paper ones and the problem is gone. No o-ring style gaskets or youll be sorry. Melted pistons 2 times now.
14. Buy the $40 converter adapter for the crankshaft, slot the holes in the flexplate for the converter for $0 and hold that b!tch to the floor till the bottom blows out of it!

Q: what are you guys doing about motor mounts? will the old style bolt on?

A: They make adapter plates for $50 that allow use of factory uppers and lowers.

Joker14 Says: Do enough looking and hunting youll understand why the best dollar for dollar deal is leaving the engines with stock parts. the minute you want to build them up to 500 hp you start spending money and youll be right back where you are with SBC's. For me, the LS1 heads and cam are about $4/hp so ill do that. Most cams are $350+ and most need valve springs which are another $300 or so. So for me the hot cam upgrade is about 14-20 hp and thats $40/hp and thats too much for me to justify. There are more low lying fruit on the tree to pick off first. The LS1 heads on the LQ4 are more compression and more flow. They are $100, the hot cam is $350+ and i would not add it without the heads first. not saying the cam is not good but is was the first design for the ASA cars in the 90's then they changed to what they call the ASA cam. That hot cam is WAY more potent with more compression. Add about 11 to 1 with it and now your makin power. Im going to actually race that combination in an 8 hour endurance race at Condord Speedway Oct. 22nd. 8 hrs at 7700. Thats like 800 dyno pulls. $200 junkyard 6.0, $100 ls1 heads, $350 hot cam, $700 6ls box and performer intake, $1400 750 Holley by Blake Carburetion. About 430 HP.

Fine smite his a$$ like a mofo for now on then lol. But on a serious note lol....the performer package that comes with the kit on summit says good from 15-6500. Is the vic jr a higher band intake? Ill be running a quick fuel 750 and i will churn the hell out of it.....

Been getting a million questions about the programable boxes and where to put the timing curve at. YOU MUST PROGRAM THE BOX BEFORE YOU RACE IT OR IT WILL RUN LIKE shoot AND MOST LIKELY BURN UP A PISTON. The factry settings are about 50 degrees @ 2000 and run like hell. I've done it, i know. Click and drag in the graph when you save a file for your car. Then send to car. Make the graph look like this. Stop it at about 33 degrees. They will take more but stock stuff has no gain above this point. They just dont like the timing.since that graph is so bad, ill spell it out

0 0
1000 16
2000 24
3000 30
4000 33
5000 33
6000 33
7000 33
8000 33

Its not a linear deal, you can have more timing sooner at the bottom due to excess fuel from acc pumps and power valves.alright ladies, this is what i came up with for responses to emails. They all use a factory aluminum or steel LS1 flywheel which you need to find on your own. Since we run their decal on our car they said I can let you use the discount code. The code is 1DEAL10. Those are the prices after the discount. Owner also said he'll give us another 10% off which is not figured into the prices below. Any questions and issues need to go through their motorsports rep. Rick Cole. 216-688-8300. Now listen to me, if you just call up and ask for your own sh!t your way cause your a dummy you may loose out on the discounts. I suggest you email Rick and use him or atleast call and ask for him.

Rick Cole 216-688-8300 email rcole@mrgasket.com

Hayes and Lakewood components

Saginaw 10.4” 1-1/8 10 spline Clutch 40-111 Plate 33-610 Bearing 70-101

M22 or T10 11” 1-1/8 26 spline Clutch 40-221-Plate 34-618 Bearing 70-101

Muncie 11” 1-1/8 10 spline Clutch 40-212 Plate 34-618 Bearing 70-101

Bronze Lakewood 15976 or Roller Lakewood 15977 Pilot bushings

40-111 Clutch 158.95
33-610 Plate 326.95
70-101 Bearing 63.95

40-221 Clutch 158.95
34-618 Plate 36.95
70-101 Bearing 63.95

40-212 Clutch 158.95
34-618 Plate 326.95
70-101 Bearing 63.95

15976 17.95
15977 37.95

Q: Ive been reading this post and maybe I missed it but are you running old style turbo 350/400 with and a spacer for the torque converter? I know the bellhousing bolts up but I read this right after 12 pages there is a space for the converter. Thanks for any info.

A: No spacers needed, i have gone through 12 motors already and have not needed any. If you get the flat 6.0 flexplates the require an adapter and longer bolts. Stick to the 5.3 stuff and all you need is the $40 hub spacer.

Q: I run a th350Do I have to buy a msd 6ls box?

Happy to hear a th350 will bolt to thought have to buy a new trans

A: In this configuration you do. Almost all of the budget minded derby guys are going to need one. You can run all the factory stuff and try and make it work but i tried that. Not going to work for a derby. Tried to package up the distributor stuff and kinda pricey for and im never going to get it ito the types of cars i drive and get good rad clearance. So far the MSD/Edelbrock package is clean, simple, cheap, and reliable and runs dam cool for the little effort you have to put in them.

Found what i was looking for moroso makes an adapter for a BB chevy water pump to go on an ls part #63615 with -12 an fittings to do a remote style thermastat housing for $100. Anyone ever figure out a cost effective way to mount a different harmonic balancer to use regular 3 bolt pattern pulleys? and the bolt that holds it on seems to be really on there my half inch gun wont bring it. i either got to take my impact back the snap on man or can i heat it without hurting anything up there cause i understand the oil pump is at the front? if someone could help me out be much appriciated. Thanks

This place sells a complete package to put a 3 or 4 speed behind an LS engine.....http://paceperformance.com/i-5146180-pac-1680-ls-4-speed-conversion-kit.html

i think scoggin-dickey has the stock apearing intake to fit Vortecs, i had 2 of them in the 90's, this company may have been the ones making iron LS block heads. They are somewhere and not cheap i know. I have not been interested in them though, piles of 317's, 243's and 241's that ill never use up. They seem to be taking the overheating well.

We are selling the new modified oil pumps and oil pump centering kits here at Baldwin Racing Engines, give us a call and we will set you up with what you need to keep that LS engine running strong and running long. 573-225-6886 or 573-788-2329

The pumps that we use for the derby engines run 195.00, they have o-ring sealed outlet ports, over sized outlet port, radius machined oil passage exit flow, ball check valve, externally changeable pressure port with three differant springs for pressure changes. The pump centering kit runs 40.00, and this is very critical on these LS engines the way the pump is mounted on the block you can side load the inner pump rotor with out it. Give us a call today at 573-225-6886 or 573-788-2329

I found a way not to have to buy the hub adapter or the flexplate or even do any grinding on a stock one. Looks like an 07 flexplate is flat. Any engine backed with a 4L80 trans comes with a flat flexplate. Looks more stout too. The 4L60 backed motors come with a more backspaced (for lack of a better word) flexplate. To make them both work with the same starter location, there is a factory spacer under the FLAT flexplate. Get the spacer under the flat flexplate and put it on the outside the backspaced flexplate and theres you hub for you converter to slide into. Dont forget the bolts that go with the hub, they are longer. NOW............ i have found a flexplate on the back of a 5.3 that had a 4L80 trans, this flexplate being flat, that has BOTH sets of holes. Says "Make in Canada" on it. Not sure that that really means anything. It has the (LS style) pattern AND the more traditional pattern to fit all 350 and 400's. So there is your package for no extra money nor labor.

Still trying to get these factory intakes and fuel management systems to work for more of a derby application. Ill get it, just takes time.

Are you getting headers through DEC? I sugest 1 3/4 primaries and 4 inch collector. The price is coming down pretty good on those now.

Coils: find the round coils off the older trucks, they are on a 15 degree angle and clear DEC/Joker 1st design stuff great with stock wires.

Dont be afraid to bore the 5.3 to 5.7, have made plenty of iron block 5.7 engines. Lots of wrecked camaros break the block upon hard hits and the motors are incredibly cheap, i get a $50 5.3 core, clean it and bore it for $150 and put all the internals from the 5.7 in it and wallah! Iron 5.7.

Fan: Take the large nut on the back of the fan clutch where it threads onto the water pump pulley, take it and make round plate that matches the bolt pattern and put them together, just eliminating the clutch so its direct is what i was trying to say more or less

Intakes: The dual plane one, its about driveability to me not the few extra hp, they make plenty already. i have a few of both so i could find out for myself. i have ran them all with a 750, a 4412, and a 2g and i put a 650 Edelbrock out of my junk pile on it for this run at Sturgis becasue i am getting so many questions about it and the only way to know is to just do it, not talk about it.. I like the dual plane one but in the racing world its not as cool and whats cool rules so everyone will but the single plane one. The GM one is actually the best one on the dyno by far, just a little more on the price side. Gm make way way way better parts for these engine especailly the new generation stuff.

Cams: Your best replacement cam for the budget guy is going to are the LS6 cams. Although hard to find and never all that cheap its a big jump for the 5.3 6.0 truck engines. Now the Very easy to find upgrade cams are the 99-01 LS1 cams. They are a close second and you wont pay more than $75 for them. They are also a good upgrade for cheap. in third place are thee rest of the LS1 cams and they are still a far cry from the stock 4.8, 5.3 and 6.0 stuff. Aftermarket cams can get you further ahead but i have npt seen any torquy (sp)? stuff out there to really want to make me buy one. There is custom stuff out there but im not paying $400 bucks for a cam. I aint got tat much in the motor and stock they make plenty.

Ign. Timing: Q; I think im going to start with the #3 pill first and c what happens, i now you have talked about the map sensors before, but is there one that will take the heat and vibration better than another or when it comes to that are they all about the same, i remember you saying that a backfire can knock them out so bring a spare, ive got like 10 there all factory gm ones

A: I run the most timing i can get, the beauty of these set ups is it starts at 0 degrees and at 2500 it max timing. you cant get that out of a SBC. I have had no sensor issues yet. The map sensors are pretty durable unless you get a hard pow out of the carb then it can blow the diapram. i have only expirenced that in my 24 hr road race car, never in a derby car so dont jump out the window. Even if it blows it out it defaults to a mild timing curve and gets you through to the end. I did not even know it happened till the race was over. It will run with it unplugged too. Its what tells the computer where your throttle position is at. max vacuume=idle zero vacuume=WFO! it takes awhile for the ecm to learn this initially.

Ok what intake is best to use the Eldelbrock or the GMPP?

Does the GMPP have a mouting boss for the MSD 6010?

Anyone doing anything to the 2 jet when using them on the 5.3

Is there a "Best Carb" yet for the 5.3? I thought about a 600 CFM Edelbrock or 2 Jet

Pistons
GM has used several different pistons in these engines because of the different displacements and applications. There are a few things you should know about them:

All of the Gen III pistons are cast, eutectic aluminum with 1.5/1.5/3.0mm ring grooves.
The 4.8L piston is a flat top, but the 5.3L is dished because they both use the same head, so the 5.3L with the longer stroke would have had too much compression with a flat top piston.

The LS1 pistons are made of a good, standard aluminum alloy that was more than adequate for a regular motor, but the pistons for the LS6 pistons were made of a premium alloy that had more copper and nickel in it so they were stronger and they didn't expand quite as much when they were hot. The additional strength was important in a performance motor, but the lower expansion rate was more important because it allowed

GM to run tighter bore clearances which reduced noise and lowered oil consumption.
The 6.0L pistons were all flat tops, but the ones used for the 6.0L LQ9 that came in the Escalade in '02 had a moly coating on the skirts and a thermal barrier on the top.

All of the Gen III pistons have had a moly coating on the skirts since 2003.

^ I copied that from another site.

I found the piston coating comments to be interesting.

I bought a 5.3 today from an 01, but I could have had a choice of various years.

I will be on the lookout for the Escalade takeouts.

OK...I am posting here cause in a few days the other site will be RIP...

Anybody put a 5.3 in a Box Car & if so what DEC headers fit best?

^ I understand that I just wondered with 14 different style size headers to choose from what has been used with no problems.

It might be to early in the LS game to get an answer as I bet there have not been a ton of these in Box Cars yet.