thor209

come on dodge truck guys I got a 1974 extended cab that I need tips on.

MADDOG403

I have never seen a 70's or 80's dodge make or take more than a couple of hits! With that being said I have never looked at one really close either!

99x

I've seen a 80s dodge win one and helped biuld it but it was all luck and it was a few years ago. It bent EVERYWHERE! They aren't the best mabe run in a chain and bang truck class and that's about it. JMO tho

mewes5x

i disagree with everything above!. yeah there not goin to hold up goin head on with a one ton.. but build right they compete and last 6 or more shows easy.. *need to know how to build them tho*

Remington75

i just picked up a 68 3/4 ton hoping it holds up for a while

MADDOG403

You can build ANYTHING to be strong! If you are on the tips thread then that probably means that you are not going to put the time into a junk dodge to make it stronger! Trucks are cheap and scrap is high, If I had a mid 70s or newer dodge I would pull some parts off it, scrap it and find something better!

huhn137

Got one in the yard with 5 runs on it still straight..

trucksmasher1

I would take a 70's to early 80's Dodge after anything. I have ran many of them and done well. Just like anything you need to start with a good base, not a pile of rust.
As for tips, weld all that you can, including frame mounts for cab and suspension.
Change all body bolts- I run 10 bed bolts, and then the 4 in the cab, and 2 up front through core support. Most all are 1" pinned through the frame.
Build a good cage about 6 to 8 inches off the floor.
Build a good gas tank protector tied into your cage.
Add leafs front and rear and clamp tight.
I like my tailgate in stock location welded solid, inside and out. Some like to slide them down.
I also like to remove the rear bumper and run without one.
Shorten the front frame and hard nose bumper.
You can weld your box to the cab also, but I don't.
Under tuck your box and weld it up.
Change out steering with some u-joints.
Longer trucks are not better,just bigger targets.

That's all I can think of right now, I add more if I can think of any.

mewes5x

theres nothing wrong with 72 to 92/3 dodges.. there not the best out there but will eat a chevy up any day the week in the front!

Mopar To The Max

Now come on Maddog403 , if everyone scraps a truck because they feel they aren't tough enough, the trucks will slowly die. I agree a 60's dodge is awesome, which what I prefer to build also. I've won several derbies and seen others win with 70"s and 80"s dodge trucks. Like one of the other guys pointed out, if the truck has a good base it's worth derbing, and I feel that goes for any brand of truck. Need competition in the arena to have a good derby, to make it worth while for the promoters to justify a good purse, these things aren't getting any cheaper to build or purchase with scrap prices high. Now saying that others need to start paying scrap price for these trucks, saving all your build garbage, and putting it back in the truck when it comes time to dispose of it. That way you get your base investment back, Hopefully you also had some fun, and where able place in a event, and have a few beers with your buddies. I save every sound truck I find in hopes that someone can derby it, before it goes derby truck heaven LOL. And yes I sell them for scrap price, and ocassionally have had to crush them to get my investment back, but I've had good luck reselling them to fellow derby builders. In our area the trucks are kept fairly stock, limited rebolting, very little welding except for drivers door and cockpit cage (on allowed boxed cage in the horizontial postion). We are allowed to interchange front bumers with 5" of weld to the frame and rebolt with factory type brackets no extra metal. Our rules 1/2 tons with the 1/2 tons, and the 3\4tons & 1 tons in there wn class. Which I feel levels the playing field in a stock type classes. I know alot of people will disagree with this, but seems to be the preferred way in our area, except were more extreme builds are allowed, and yes anything then can be built strong. Now this JMO I'm not a truck derby God LOL, but can usually hold my own in the arena, with a good base truck, good build skills, and as always a little luck goes along ways.

catscratch

Read through this and I'm getting mixed signals about how well a Dodge truck can do. I think it is because of differing build rules. I'm going to ask this as straight forward as I can so that you guys can give me your opinions (and I realize what opinions are but let them fly anyway):

Stock build: stock bumpers, only sheet metal welding is on the doors and gate 5in on 5in off skip welding, can change cab/bed mounting bolts, 4 bar cage in cab, and change drivetrain to Chevy if I want. 2 wheel drives only, no front straight axles.

With these rules how will a 70's-80's Dodge 3/4 ton compare to same years Chevy 3/4 tons?

Thanks.

jbsmashtyme

They can compete just fine with Chevy. I have ran a 1990 dodge 1/2 ton truck 6 times now. The last two times did not really count much due to only making only one hit each time. Got hung up and broke drive shaft and broken tranny the second time.

mewes5x

hands down would compete!! take the chevys head to head and watch them frames go side ways!

Mopar To The Max

I would definetly find myself a 3/4 ton 70's Dodge if you can, I feel they are stronger than other brands in that year range. I,ve won several derbies in a 70,s dodges, if your allowed to interchange the bumper, put a good innerwall bumper on it, just notch the back of the bumper, and slide it over ths c-channel frame, and rebolt it threw that center brace in a least 4 spots or weld to the frame if your rules will allow it. The other key on a front steer type dodge is to make a slider type steering shaft over the existing shaft, and chain the rag joint on the stock shaft. Other wise I would install a complete fabricated steering system if allowed. Would be best to see the rules for your area, to see if I have any tricks that would help. Feel free to call if you have any questions 218-964-5674 after 6pm weekdays central time.

catscratch

Thanks for the input and offer, I appreciate it!

2young2drive

I do not run trucks, But I own several of these older dodges from 72-93 platform. The later cummins truck frames are little thicker and taller...

trucksmasher1

As I stated in my earlier post, I would take one of these after anything. But you will need to do something with the sheetmetal bumper.

catscratch

Ok, same question but lets throw a kink into it; same rules and same competition how would a half ton Dodge hold up (I've ben running half ton Chevys), and no I can't do anything with the bumper.

moparman005

it will hold up just fine just make sure to use an engine cradle...

Mopar To The Max

If your rules keep 1/2 ton against 1/2 tons, I feel the dodge has a advantage over the other brands as long as you have a clean body, solid body mounts, and clean frame truck. I agree with the last post a engine craddle is very important if allowed, also recommend that make all hits square with front or rear, not alot of strength in the corners especially in the front, and you don't what to knock out your steering, with a left front corner hit. Would be nice to see your rules, to see if any of my build techniques will be allowed in your stock class. Email me your rules if you can, I'll pm you my email.

crookeddemo

Lets hear some of those tricks on the 60s Dodges. How are the front axles and steering on these?

catscratch

I've got one but doubt I will ever get to run it. Looks like the axle would be good, no idea on the steering box.

MADDOG403

I have never seen a 70's or 80's dodge make or take more than a couple of hits! With that being said I have never looked at one really close either!

I seen a 70-80s dodge extended cab with a ford bed, do really well this weekend! Just in the heat, when they pulled out for the main the power went out and they sent us all home >:(

mewes5x

heres a pic of a 80s dodge with a 5 by 5 box tube bumper and the frame bent a little but it flatten out the box tube.. these trucks can compete..

redneckexpress

im guna b buildin my first truck (86 ram charger), find a power stearing pump bracket from a powerwagon plow truck, it moves the pump from a low mount to a top engin mount, this will get it out of the way of bending metal (works great on cars, might also on trucks), im also guna try to move the stearing box rearward closer to the engine mount (lots of figurin out to do looks like itll work tho) this way if the frame bends or sways ill still have stearing

sicknasty616

found a 70 dodge power wagon 4x4, great frame good body. can anyone tell me if these can compete with the 60's dodges and fords? thanks

00DODGE

ya they are good any dodge is good it just how you build them.

85TOYOTA

Im fixin to build truck # 2. Its a 75 D150 4x4 with an 81 cab. 1st thing i notaced is there is what looks like looks like a rifle muzle break around the steering column. Is that a crush point that shuld be welded solid or leave it be?

billy

I have ran one mid 80s dodge half ton. Bellied it out after two derbies. Had a 1st and 2nd on it. Then I ran a 76 chevy and got 7 runs out of it a 3rd, three 2nds and three 1st. The last one I ran was a mid 80s chevy I got 9 runs out of it six 1st, two 2nds, and a 4th. But now I have found a 65 dodge half ton I would like to build. Will this be any good? Would it have leaf springs in the front? How would the steering hold up or should a guy switch it over to gm?

pickupman6

idk about leafs or steering but i have ran with a truck this body style and he won all but one of the shows this year, and that thing hasnt bent any, if i could get one i would run it in a hearbeat.

billy

thanks for the info

00DODGE

I would pull it all out and bud one out of 3/4 ID dom tubing with two u joints one at the streeing box and one at the fire wall if Need more info send me PM

mewes5x

I would pull it all out and bud one out of 3/4 ID dom tubing with two u joints one at the streeing box and one at the fire wall if Need more info send me PM

agree..

Remington75

how many of you guys have ran skidsteer tires on these i got some 10-16.5 and 12-16.5 didnt know what you guys think?

from what i read on here these are the best trucks and what i have seen of them run i would pick it up i got a 68 dodge 3/4 ton and your truck will have front leafs pick it up if its cheap. had a buddy run a half ton and not much difference between the two of ours but would put a full floater in it.

85TOYOTA

i know guys that run theme. the only complaint is not great tracton. i run DOT mud tires with tubes and skid steer tire sidewalls. better traction and less weight to turn..

Remington75

thats what i was wondering about the 10's arent too bad for weight really might stick them on and play with em before makin my mind up but now need to decide how many leafs to stick in it...

moparmachine

I have a 64 dodge 1/2 ton with 6 nights on it and have had damn good luck with it only thing i did was add springs and a 76 yorker bumper

knecht93

i have a 86 dodge 1500 and i wanted to know if just haveing a front drive shaft is better than useing the rear?

Remington75

what is your reasoning for thinking this im just curious if somebody told you or if ya got a legit reason why?

trucksmasher1

Use the rear drive shaft. When you weld the front gears they are a monster to steer in reverse, rip the wheel out of your hand. And the rear will take more abuse. I've broke front housing ends right off, though not that often it does happen. I ran one welded front and rear, never again.

kencht93

i wanted to kmow because the rear drivesahft was bent. ive also heard of one guy that just used the front. i just wanted to know before i make a driveshaft thanks.

brandonhinkle13

is the 90's 4x4 frame good I'm building one and I'm going to build a 70's cab for it do you thank it will b good or not can sum one tell me sum thing on this or not it my first dodge need sum tips on this frame to its got sum crush points in it need to know haw to fix this

Du's sum one know sum thing on this or not