here is one of the trunks we did and had good luck with, its a mint rust free 77 new yorker.

It has 1" trunk rods that pinch trunk to floor pan and tighten at top.

Has four six welds, one on each side on top of trunk and two along the back of the trunk towards package tray.

No rear bumper. no seams welded.

I nice deep notch right about where the shocks would end if they were there

Hammered a dent in top of the quarters right at tuck, and right at the back of the trunk.

Chained humps.

The trunk wasnt used much (like usual for us) but it was going good.

Through the years, we've found out that on the FMJ bodies, if you remove the back bumper the trunck rolls fine. Or at least they did for us

yeah not 100% success rate but generally works pretty well. Certainly better chance for success than leaving the bumper on and just welding the lid down.

Lol, it's hard to get anything to roll 100% right, but yeah. We left the bumper on our first one and it messed the rear up, I'll look for pictures than our 2nd one didn't have one and went up a little and straight back. 3rd had to have a bumper but we bent it up at a 45 degree angle and it basically worked like a wedged trunk

If you collapse the shocks all the way and trim the bumper down to the shocks it does the same affect as no bumper, and your still hittin with a bumper and not your body....along with keeping the rails tied together.

75 cordoba anything that should be done to the trunk???

I've never seen a double frame 75 so I'll assume yours isn't either. For the single frame Dobas I prefer to build the trunk to roll instead of staying straight, JMO

Yea no double frame here.... So are you saying to leave it alone and let it roll in on it's own?

no I would never leave it alone unless the rules said I had to. "build it to roll" means some combination of tuck, notch, prebend, no bumper..... stuff like that. Could be a combination of those, whatever you prefer. The only thing I would not suggest is to just weld the lid shut and walk away, that's a great way to get a sky pointer.

I ran a 75 cordoba and just notched it and it went pretty good hears the after pick.   file://localhost/Users/artietressler/Pictures/iPhoto%20Library/Originals/2012/Feb%2021,%202012/IMG_0052.JPG

what i did to my trunk though for my rules  is weled all the way around  a 2 inch weld 6 inch gap  and then beat in the quarter pannels and notched the  frame about one inch deep  just made a line not a v .. and it folded great. the first heat i got hit in the trunk about 3 times  not that hard and it didnt move.  and then the second heat i used my trunk  about 3 times half throtle and got hit in me ass end a few times and the trunk was hardly bent ..  then in the main my fron bumper came off and i useed the ass end pretty much the entire time .. they are decently strong.. i was suprised ....ill upload some picks when i get a chance.  and then i also added 2 leaf clamps on each side.

That sounds like a great idea... I'd love to see the pics

ok ill post away... 

74 newport 100% rust free, just a simple tuck with out a notch then a crease down the sides, pics explain

before

coming in for consi, rolled perfect but humps started blowing but not bad enough to change pinion angle... rear bumper fell off in heat and didnt put back on

after consi, sitting waiting for feature to start

at the end of the derby, took a big shot from the above noser IMP

trunk was secure with 2 3/8ths bolts and 2 cable ties

run number 2, pushed the back down and canoed it, also notched in 2 places and took off trunk lid

looks the same after, never hit or got hit with the back before car was toast

.......

78 newport

trunk is tucked and canoed down, 4x4 plates welded about 12 inches apart, humps chained, some creasing done, angle iron rear window bar, rusty car with bottom of quarters gone... be ran in June

also contemplating on not running a rear bumper or possibly just a skin, will also probably have 2 more leaf springs per side too

.... also have a pretty clean 69 fury and a VERY rusty 74 IMP to mess with, all will have different combo's to the back ends to figure out the perfect setup

I didn't see the pic... Im new to notching and welding tucking that kinda stuff so notching means torching a hole in top of frame right?

good luck finding the top of a mopar frame... but yes it basicly does

Thats what I didn't understand because it's like a unibody?

you ask i shall post... done to the above blue car, were late in the game so made no difference but you get the idea... also mine looks like shit cuz i did it with a stick welder

i can also get pics of the smaller notch i did to the red car tomorow

the best way i have found is to wedge the trunk and take bumper off.  the back is just to take abuse on a mopar not give it out.  the springs will help roll it up  never seen any need for notching

NO offense 307 but I would never ever notch a Mopar like that, actually I would never ever notch a mopar period.  IMO you're taking away all the strength back there by cutting the frame and giving it places to rip & tear.  Build the rear to fold in on itself without taking away any material, along with a minimum 7 leafs per side and chained humps and you'll have yourself a contender.  Everyone is so tuck and notch crazy since all the gm and ford guys do it.  Remember, these are not full frame cars and require a totally different way of thinking when it comes to setting them up.  IMO do not tuck and notch a Mopar!!!

the blue one was already f#cked when i notched it, the humps were going pretty bad so thats why i did it just to take stress off the humps... and the red one is way less then the 1/4 inch i thought, its hardly even there, the derby that one is going to is a 4 man team show that is a pure front end game when the backends dont even exist hardly so id rather just get it where i want it.... my 69 fury im building next will be a totally different setup without a tuck or notch